LONDON TO WALSINGHAM - 174/194 MILES

ABOUT THE WALK AND MY STORY -

This book has taken six years to bring to fruition and is the first book to re-instate this major pilgrmage route.. Two other books, of mine, have traced the routes to Little Walsingham from Ely and King’s Lynn. I was therefore keen to do the “big one” and walk from London. I wanted to keep as near as possible to the historical medieval route, resulting in the book taking so long! In medieval times you simply followed Roman Roads, such as Watling Street, but today these roads are full of heavy traffic and not a fit place for a walking pilgrim. But they missed the key places of the pilgrimage,
closeby. I ended up walking some 400 miles trying out and researching various routes that kept near to the true spiritual route.

Today several London - Walsingham annual pilgrimage walks follow the roads to Walsingham. The Roman Catholic churches along the route have plaques stating the distance walked from London. The last one in the Slipper Chapel states - 121 miles - this is direct busy major road walking.

The basic road walk they follow today is -

London (St. Ethelreda’s Place) to Hoddesdon - 22 miles

Hoddesdon to Puckeridge - 21 miles

Puckeridge to Sawston - 20 miles

Sawston to Newmarket - 22 miles

Newmarket to Brandon - 2! miles

Brandon to Swaffham - 18 miles

Swaffham to Fakenham - 14 1/2 miles

Fakenham to Slipper Chapel & Walsingham - 5 1/2 miles

Total - 144 miles

My basic aim has been to create a true pilgrim walkers route, following paths and tracks as much as possible. Naturally, road walking is needed to link it all together, especially in Norfolk where rights of way are fewer on the ground; but the roads are quiet. The other small problem was the start in London. If you are a Roman Catholic you start from St. Ethelreda’s in Ely Place, Holborn, but if you are an Anglican, then St. Magnus near the Monument is your starting point. Being a walker, I walked the Lee valley from both starts to avoid central London. But I soon realised this was not the true route, and walked through the city to reach the many fascinating churches on the way. For I firmly believe that a pilgrim is not simply putting his or her head down and pounding out the miles, he or she needs spiritual nourishment by visiting and appreciating the
ecclesiastical buildings passed on the way. I have therefore created a route through London and added the Lee Valley walk as a ‘countryside” alternative; both are approximately the same mileage.

In North London I have used the New River Path as the link path from Islington to Ware in Hertfordshire; here both the River Lee Navigation and New River meet. But on both routes I have deliberately looped round to Waltham Abbey, for this was a major pilgrim centre in its out right_in medieval times, and deserves to be included.

From Ware there is another problem, for many walk through Sandon and Puckeridge and onto Newmarket. But again my research showed that Cotterill near Buntingford, has, by tradition, been a stopping point for pilgrims as the church has a medieval mural of St. Christopher. Here they stopped and prayed for a safe journey. 80 miles later you will come to another St. Christopher
mural. As a result I have kept to the western side of the valley, passing several churches dedicated to St. Mary, which is always a guide that you are walking the right way. By walking from Puckeridge to Newmarket you omit a very key place associated with the pilgrim’s route - Royston. Here Henry 8th. stayed on his pilgrimage but more importantly it is the cross roads of Watling Street and the Icknield Way. Here was a Priory, a famous cross, a Templar Cave, and a fascinating church and historical town.

From Newmarket there is again a decision to be made, whether to head north via Mildenhall to Brandon or take the longer route to Bury St. Edmunds, and visit the shrine of St. Edmunds; another pilgrimage centre in its own right. Many Walsingham bound medieval pilgrims made this loop and adds a day - 20 miles - to your pilgrimage. From there you can walk northwards to Brandon or loop to Mildenhall and onto Brandon. I have included all these routes. Personally I am torn, because Mildenhall has an exceptional church. You also pass through Lakenheath and its church to Brandon. Alternatively, you can go more direct to Brandon through the forest, in remote countryside seeing deer and no humans, with time for contemplation and mediation. The
choice is yours, for both are the historical routes; it depends on your timetable.

From Brandon the route to Swaffham is more defined with a Pilgrim's Way marked on the map beyond Weeting. I tried to follow a route from Mundford to the Peddar’s Way but it involves major road walking and I abandoned it. Swaffham has an interesting Pedlar story and from here the route is clear to Castle Acre and its ruined Priory and a St. James church - recalling the famous pilgrimage to Santiago e Compostella and Patron Saint of Spain. From Castle Acre the route is clear to Tittleshall and onto Fakenham. Here pilgrims stopped
overnight ready for the final few miles, feeling refreshed and clean to reach their destination. It is all along quiet roads, passing East Barsham with a Our Lady of Walsingham shrine, and the Manor House where Henry 8th. stayed on his pilgrimage. Soon after you reach Houghton St. Giles and descend to the Slipper Chapel and the Roman Catholic Shrine to our lady. A walk along the Holy Mile brings you to Little Walsingham and the Anglican Shrine; ruined Priory and all the historical associations with the pilgrimage. There is even a
Russian Orthodox church and several Pilgrim Hostels; just like home!

For me it has been a most enjoyable journey following leads and new paths, discovering the amazing places along the way. I am sorry, for me, it is over, but for you a marvellous adventure is about to begin, as you follow in the footsteps of medieval pilgrims walking to England's finest pilgrimage centre.

Bou Camina! Happy pilgrimage.
John N. Merrill

A5 WALK GUIDE - spiral bound, 256 pages, signed by John Merrill.

Special embroidered cloth badge and signed certificate for successful pilgrims, fro John Merrill.

All walkers added to my Walkers Roll of Honor page.