THE PAPS OF JURA CHALLENGE WALK - 18 MILES AND 4 SUMMITS.
ABOUT THE WALK AND MY STORY.
I first climbed the Paps of Jura in 1968 and knew this was a special and magical island and that I would return to regularly. I climbed them all and the Little Pap in 1970 on my 1,000 miles walk through all the islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides. To further my connection I stayed at Port Askaig for Christmas and New Year in 1970/1. Christmas Day nothing really happened but on New Years Eve the drinking and celebrations began. I had a couple of whiskies but wanted to be sober as I planned to ascend the nearest pap across the sound - Beinn a’ Chaolais - as a first footing and New Year’s Day walk, which is a tradition of mine.
I caught the landing craft across the sound of Isley to Feolin Ferry and told the boatman I was ascending the nearest pap and would be back at 4pm. He said he would come and collect me! I set off in beautiful weather and crossed Glen Astaile and began the ascent. I was on the top an hour later in perfect weather, with the sun behind me, zero degrees and cloud beyond. As I stood there my shadow went out into the centre of the cloud surrounded by a circular rainbow, a rare Brocken Spectre. I took photos of it which appeared later on the cover of the Guinness book of Weather - Facts and Feats - records!
I set off down knowing I had only 2 hours of daylight left. I retraced my steps back across the glen and to the pier at Feolin Ferry, as darkness descended. I waited but no landing craft came! After an hour I went to the phone box and spoke to the operater; the last hand cranked switchboard in the UK.. I explained my predicament and she said she would ring the hotel at Port Askaig and hopefully locate the ferryman. She did and half an hour later the tank landing craft arrived for a sole pedestrian. He apologised as he had seen no car lights and thought no one wanted to cross the sound! Back on Islay I bought him a couple of whiskies. Three days later I left the island and no-one was sober, for each night a different malt whisky, made on the island, was opened! I did a first footing to the northern tip of Islay to wish the lighthouse keepers a happy new year. They allowed me to climb to the top of the lighthouse and switch the light on, which could be seen 10 miles away. Today it is automatic and no lighthouse keepers.
I continue to walk the Paps and have totally explored the island. Off the northern tip is the Gulf of Corryvrechan with the third largest whirlpool in the world, overlooking the Island of Scarba. I have camped on the shore and heard the whirlpool grinding around. I have also sailed through the gulf in mild weather, bound for St. Kilda. and kept well away from the whirlpool! The western side of the island is full of raised beaches, upto 100 feet higher than the present sea level and some a 1/4 mile inland. Makes absorbing remote walking and wild camping using driftwood to cook by; idealistic days. I once slept in a housekeepers bed in the lodge at Glen Batrick on the west coast but itched all night from bed bugs!
An exceptional challenge and island and a remote hard mountain walk.
A5. Placed in a plastic wrap arrounf cover and signed by John Merrill.
Speial embroidered badge and signed certificate from John Merrill.
Walkers added to my Walkers Roll of Honour page.