ST. CEDD'S PILGRIMAGE WALK - 24 MILES (Essex)
ABOUT THE WALK & MY STORY -
I first came to St. Peter’s on the Wall (St. Cedd’s) chapel in 1978, after walking 6,700 miles around the coast of Britain. I stayed nearby and as I approached my overnight’s halt, watched a beautiful sunset. I never forgot this remote corner of England. As my Ordination as an Interfaith Minister drew near, I said I would spend my last night in solitude on top of a mountain. But as the ceremony was due to take place in London, there are no mountains closeby. instead, I immediately thought of the chapel, which being one of the earliest .
Christian sites in England, was most appropriate. I quickly looked on the internet and discovered there was an annual pilgrimage taking place that weekend. I resolved to join it and get a general layout of the area ready for final night in two weeks time.
I joined more than 1,200 pilgrims at St. Thomas church in Bradwell on Sea, and after a service lead by the Bishop of Bradwell - the Rt. Revd. Dr. Laurie Green - we set off to walk the two miles to the chapel. There, was held a large service with a Methodist Minister, a Quaker, and an address by the Archbishop of York - the Rt. Revd John Sentamu. Gospel music was provided by Quire from Colchester. A lovely day out and I just had time to explore the area briefly and visit the nearby Othona Community, before final prayers and the walk back to Bradwell on Sea.
Fwo weeks later after driving back from my final retreat in Somerset, I reached the chapel just after 10 pm. I mediated inside first, before setting up my tent just beyond it. I couldn't sleep and at 3.30 pm was wide awake listening to the dawn chorus of oystercatchers and curlew. An hour later dawn broke and was a glorious mixture of oranges as the orange globe of the sun rose into the
sky - see book cover photograph. I watched for a while before taking the tent down and gong into the chapel to meditate. Half an hour later I walked back to the car to begin the journey to London. It was very early but I hate being late and besides, the day was to be the most important one in my life. At 7.45pm I was in Notting Hill near the church, where and others would be Ordained. I found a cafe and tucked into a massive and delicious full English breakfast; I couldn’t have chosen better. After rehearsals and no lunch I, and
sixty others from all over Britain were Ordained in the afternoon. A new challenging chapter in our lives had begun.
But I wasn’t ready to leave the chapel yet, for I felt there was a meaning to my visits; this would be my third visit in a month! Having been intrigued by the name Southminster and seeing its large spectacular church, I knew I must atart the walk from there to the chapel, as a pilgrimage walk and a chance to say Thank You. Exactly two weeks after Ordination, i arrived at Southminster and set off on the following walk. At first there was gentle drizzle but not enough to warrant putting on a rain jacket; it was too hot anyway. I have this
ability to dictate the weather, and as I walked through Tillingham and headed for the coast, the rain started. I raised my hand and said, “No, I don’t want any rain today”. Moments later it stopped, the clouds parted, and the sun shone for the rest of the day!
My route took me through the hamlet of Asheldham and the former St Lawrence church just off the route. Tillingham was three miles later, a most attractive village, which the walk comes back to later. Here you pick up the signed St. Peter’s Way to the chapel. By the time you get there you are almost halfway. You then hug the sea wall with views of the Blackwater Estuary, anc pass the former Atomic Power Station of Bradwell to reach Bradwe Waterside. This is a good meditative section. Here you leave the coast, having seen sandy beaches, yachts, perhaps a Thames barge, seaweed and banks of
shells.
First you make your way to Bradwell On Sea and then back to Tillingham picking up St. Peter’s Way, and following it westwards for a couple of miles before heading south back to Southminster. The whole route is along rights of way; the one’s in the Southminster area are little used, but all the stiles anc signs are there, but during the height of summer can be a little overgrown. The rest of the walk is along clearly defined paths and you should have litte trouble.
This pilgrimage walk is on basically level ground, with views, as you wail around this remote corner of Essex and England. An area of wide landscapes and large farms, much of it you will have to yourself and the birds. The simple chapel is the goal with time for contemplation and connectedness to Mother Earth. i did the walk in under 9 hours and only stopped at the Chapel. There are inns at Tillingham, Bradwell Waterside and Bradwell on Sea. Southminster has most things. There is accommodation at Bradwell on Sea, Bradwell
Waterside and Tillingham, so you have a few options to your timetable.
Enjoy this remote walk and appreciate the gentle countryside in this quiet corner of Essex, with a long association with Christianity.
HOW TO DO IT -
O.S. Explorer Map Sheet No. 176 - Blackwater Estuary.
This circular, figure of eight walk is designed to be done in a
day and is both a challenge and pilgrimage walk. The route &
basically flat but you will ascend 538 ft (164m) overall and your
The highest point is 115ft (35m Allow 9 hours or more for the
walk, which starts and ends at Southminster. The village can be
reached by bus from Chelmsford and is at the end of the railway line (One Railway from Liverpool St. Station. London. Southminster has a car park and most facilities.
A5 Guidebook, placed in a plastic wrap around cover and signed by John Merrill.
Successful walkers can obrain a special embroidered cloth badge and signed certificate from John Merrill.
All names and dates are added to my Walkers Roll of Honour page.