A WALKERS GUIDE TO THE LLANGOLLEN CANAL - 50 MILES
ABOUT THE WALK AND MY STORY -
I had been aware of the Llangollen Canal for many years, especially the Pontyeysylite Aqueduct, as you cross it walking the Offa's Dyke path. I had also on different occasions walked a section of the canal for various guidebooks, including my “Long Circular Walks in Cheshire” and my “The Sweet Peak Chellenge Walk.” But I had never walked it end to end! Then I had to chance to do it by boat and took the opportunity. I enjoyed it but felt I had lost contact with the “land” by not walking it, so I planned to do it again on foot. This was in 1996 but somehow other walks came in the way and the plan gathered dust on “my walks to do shelf". Then in 1999, I walked the
Chesapeake & Ohio Canal in America - one of their National Trails. Back in Britain I espied my Llangollen file and set off che following week! The plan wes simple; start at Nantwich and follow a section of the Shropshire Union Canal to Hurleston junction and the start of the Llangollen Canal. The first campsite dose to the canal was at Grindley Brook, fifteen miles away so that would have to do for the first day. The next day of about 15 miles to Ellesmere and another campsite. A short day but Ellesmere is worth exploring. The final day to Llangollen and Horseshoe Fails would be the longest but with so many canal features to see it would prove to be a rewarding day.
The canal is a masterpiece of 18th century canal building and has no equal anywhere in the world, During July and August it is busy with boats, but in early June, with early summer still in the ar, there were few boats and people and had the canal to myself. Apart from 2 couples of people walking their dogs I met no other walkers on the
towpath or Offa's Dyke. The Nantwich Tourist Office suggested I could leave my car at Nantwich Marina and this I did, so I was immediately on the Shropshire Union Canal. Getting back I thought might be a problem but there was a frequent bus service requiring three changes. I had expected there to be a bus from Wrexham to
Nantwich but the bus company jokingly said “You have just missed it; the last ane left THIRTY years ogo!”
By 10.30 am. I was walking dong the Shropshire Union Canal, heading northwards to Hurleston Junction and the start of the Llangollen Canal, two miles away. Crossing the footbridge at the junction I walked past the flight of locks and began to following
the towpath. The sun shone from a cloudless sky and for the three days I had cool but perfect walking weather, I soon carne to my first lift bridge, a feature of the Llangellen Canal. Then onto Wrenbury and its mill and two inns. By late afternoon I approached the lock flight at Grindley Brook and called in the shop beside them to ask about the campsite, The map illustrated a site towards Whitchurch but the shop
owner informed it was closed and a new one was opposite the lock! I walked acrossthe lock gate to the house and was taken to the camp warden who told me to pitch my tent beside a table and chairs beside the lock. What a perfect site! I sat in the sun watching the boats come through the locks. Later I walked down them to an inn for
a meal.
The next morning i was walking before 8.0 am. and walked past the Whitchurch arm and walked into more remote countryside as I neared Whixall Moss and the Prees Branch, which forms part of my Sweer Pea Challenge Walk. I had had to make a detour as the towpath was closed. The section from Prees Branch past Whixall
Moss to Ellesmere was a sheer delight with pine trees and numerous picnic tables placed by the Shropshire Union Canal Society. The scenery was rich countryside and more like “mountainous” than being on the plain, Nearing Ellesmere I passed the mere's, a feature of the area. Beside Blake Mere I had lunch but more than half my bread was eaten by the mallards and the swans with their cygnets. Walking into
Ellesmere via its arm | walked through the town to the campsite, set in a peaceful dale.
The rest of the day was spent exploring the canal town and visiting the church, The Mere and heron observation point and castle. In the shops I stocked up with food before having the “special Offer” of a steak in the Ellesmere Hotel. I had decided to walk lightweight and carry no stove or cutlery. As I walked through the town the next day | stopped in a cafe for an early bird breakfast! .... I wasn't going to loose weight on this walk! Back on the towpath I soon had to leave it as it was closed and walked across the fields to rejoin the canal at the junction with the Montgomery Canal. The larter canal is being restored with locks being rebuilt and sometime in the future you will be able to go by boat along its length.
The scenery was now becoming more hilly as the Welsh hills came inte view, First it was onto Chirk where there was a handy shop before the start of the climax to the walk and canal. Rounding a bend it was onto Chirk Aqueduct before walking through Chirk Tunnel. Then it was a licde lull before the world famous Pontycysylite Aque-duct. A delightful walk across with impressive views below and above; even the boaters didn't know where to look. At the end was the Trevor arm. HereI| walked under the canal to pickup the final four miles of the canal to Llangollen. The canal hugs the valley side and is sometimes very narrow. Beside Llangollen the canal was busy with boars and here the canal end for the boaters.....but not for the walkers!
There is two miles to go to Horseshoe Falls where Thomas Telford created a semi-circular falls on the River Dee to feed the canal. It is a fitting end in the “mountains”. This solitary act was the canal’s salvation for the canal acts as a water course and feeds the Hurleston Reservoir, 46 miles away, and was never closed. Boaters have to
battle the current to Llangollen but helps them on their return trip!
Having reached the end it was two miles back to Llangollen. i thought of stopping after 26 miles of walking, but caught the bus to Wrexham. Here stepped immediately onto one for Chester. Here I had to wait for the Hanley (Stoke on Trent} bus which
goes via Nantwich. It passes the marina and three hours from Llangollen I was back at the start! It had been a wonderful three day walk through delightful scenery from the Cheshire Plains to the Welsh Hills. I hope the sun shines for you as you make
your way along the King of canals... Happy walking! John N. Merrill.
A5 Walk guide. 64 pages. Wak log, instructions and history notes. Amenities guide. Signed by John Merrill.
Special embroidered walk badge and signed certificate from John Merrill, for successful walkers.
All walkers added to my Walkers Roll of Honour page.