ST. THOMAS BECKET OF CANTERBURY PILGRIMAGE WALK - 74 MILES
ABOUT THE WALK AND MY STORY -
It was while driving through Essex one day that I passed Pilgrim's Hatch. The name intrigued me for.I knew of no Pilgrim route here. I soon discovered it meant "Pilgrim's Gateway"; the gateway for pilgrim’s from Waltham Abbey heading for Tilbury and the passenger ferry to Gravesend and the route to Canterbury. A few days later I set off on my bicycle from the historic Waltham Abbey and cycled to Pilgrim's Hatch - along Pilgrim's Lane - and onto the foot- passénger ferry to Gravesend. I was astounded at this area of Essex. The route to Brentwood was “high” country with remarkable extensive views over Essex and London's skyline. Brentwood had a cathedral although a town. My route to Tilbury passed through Bulpham and its fine church. The surrounding area was stunning, I knew I would have walk here. The ferry trip, which takes bikewas a revelation, still carrying on a centuries old tradition from medieveal times; I felt a real pilgrim bound for the unknown.
Back home I soon sketched out a walking route from Waltham Abbey,
following paths that the monks of the Abbey would have trodden to
Pilgrim's Hatch and onto Tilbury. I had to go off and do several other
walks so the plan and maps lay on pile of walks to do. By early 2017 my plan had reached the top of the pile. I set off on a sunny early spring day and simply absorbed the area I was walking through. After Theydon Bois and Abridge, I saw hardly anyone and no walkers all day to Pilgrim's Hatch. I could have made it longer by including several churches but that would have meant an increased mileage and as there was basically no facilitlites for 12 miles between Abridge and Pilgrim's Hatch, I decided on a fairly direct route linking many rights of way together. There was one real surprise, Navestock church. Whilst I had omitted Lambourne End church - Norman - Navestock was more than worth the small loop to see; a real gem and seems to have been missed by many church guide writers. An hour later I was walking the Pilgrim's Lane to Pilgrim Hatch
and my overnight stop nearby in Brentwood, ready for Tilbury the next day. The Pilgrim’s Hall was-nearby but I planned to visit that separately after the walk. I pressed on into Brentwood.
| was up early and had breakfast and headed for Brentwood's, High Street, as I had been told there was a ruined chapel dedicated to Thomas Becket. I couldn’t believe there was still evidence of the pilgrimage walk from Waltham Abbey. In fact this was the start of many revelations. The ruins were there with a partial tower and outline of the chapel founded by the Monk's of St. Osyth Priory (Essex) in the early 13th. century and a popular pilgrimage destination then - I had been in St.Osyth ten days ago and
the Priory Gatehouse is a stunning building, the best in Europe!
Almost next door but with a notice board at the ruined chapel, was the present church dedicated to St. Thomas Becket of Canterbury. I was soon inside with a service going on in the Lady's Chapel. But was ushered in to have a look inside. There was a statue to Thomas a Becket with a sword through his head. I was given a coffee and chatted to the servers before meeting the Vicar, who gave me more information about my route ahead, and history of the chapel.
Brentwood Cathedral was a stunning revelation, not only with a pilgrim’s statue bound for Santiago de Compostella, but a really brilliant church extension with a square nave/chancel and hanging chandeliers. There was also a clip board to put your name down for a pilgimage to Walsingham; I was really in pilgrimage heaven!
Reluctantly I had to leave and begin the walk to Tilbury. The sun shone as I walked through woodland and fields to Bulphan. Here I sat outside the church on the same seat I had used when I cycled the route, and ate my snack lunch. Then I pressed on along the lanes and paths to Chadwell St. Mary, and another surprise located on the hill with a view to Tilbury. Above the houses a cruise ship moved out to sea. I descended and followed the road to the London Cruise Terminal and the passenger ferry to Gravesend. A short shower of rain fell but I did not bother to put a waterproof on, blue sky was coming. I was the sole passenger on the ferry and in no time I was in Gravesend and the path to my left for the onward walk to Canterbury.
The two days to get here had been one of solitude, passing through
quiet and gentle countryside. I felt a deep glow of satisfaction and my
inclinations were correct, discovering a forgotten pilgrim route to
Canterbury and a ferry that has been running for 900 years - wow!
Introduction to new enlarged edition.
Amost a year after I published the pilgrim guide to the route from
Waltham Abbey to Tilbury two unexpected things happened. First I sent the guide to someone in Brentwood who planned to walk from there to Canterbury. Not long afterwards she contacted me and said I had missed “Wallets” in Great Warley, where the pilgrims stayed overnight before Tilbury. I had never heard of this and my research did not flag up the village. Great Warley lies further west and not in a direct line to Tilbury. Hence I chose to head direct via Horndon Country Park and keeping to footpaths as much as possible. I resolved to meet up with her and by that time had discovered more about Great Warley and pilgrims.
Before we met I was finishing a book on long circular walks around
Hertford. My last one was encircling the town and including the village of Bramfield that I had never walked through before. I came across the fields to the village and church, which was locked, and carried on. Only afterwards did I learn that the church was Thomas Becket's first living! I went back the following week and the church was open and discovered many things associated with Thomas Becket. I knew I had to extend the walk and include all this information, so the pilgrimage walk is now almost double at 74 miles - (114 miles in total to Canterbury), and has a wealth of interesting features and churches along its route.
I chose to start from Hertford as this has all ammenities and good
transport connections. It is a very pleasant walk from the town to
Bramfield and the true start of the pilgrimage. The first day I walked to Ware and the second, from Ware to Waltham Abbey. Then two days to Tilbury via Brentwood and Great Warley.
2025 Update. Because of council cut backs and ferry from Tilbury to Gravsend is not running. I joined a campaign to stop its closure, but to no avail! For the moment you have to catch the train from Tilbury to London and another out to Gravesend to continue to Canterbury.
A5 Guide, spiral bound, signed by John Merrill.
Includes pilgrim log, amenities guide, walking and historical notes.
Successful pigrims can obtain an embroidered pilgrim badge and signed pilgrim certificate from John Merrill.
All walkers added to my Walkers Roll of Honour page.