THE ESSEX WITCHES CHALLENGE WALK - 25 MILES

ABOUT THE WALK - 

I have long been fascinated by medieval witches and have written about them often and have a popular Belvoir Witches Challenge Walk in Leicestershire. It was only after walking, again, the entire Essex coastline of some 330 miles, that I learnt of Canwedon, the witch capital of Essex. Manningtree where I started was where the. Witch-finder, Mathew Hopkins began his work. Out of more than 700 “witches”, 330 were hung; many in Chelmsford, while others died in Colchester Jail, which still exists today. I researched the subject throughly and then embarked on a series of walks to see the main sites where history was made.

Whilst I did one walk from Braintree, I headed northwards to Sible
Hedingham to the site of one of the last witches to be “swum” in the
river. He - the “Dummy witch of Sible Hedingham’- died three days later, in 1863 and fhe culprits were given six months jail sentences, for manslaughter. Essex also has the first witch hanging in 1565. Throughout the walks I learnt about the village of Coggeshall and what a unique village it was, so I held back from walking there. Saving it for this witch challenge walk. Braintree had witches and a Protestant Martyr was burnt to death there in 1555. To my surprise another was burnt, the same year in Coggeshall, so the walk route was taking shape. The village of Stisted was another village of witch activity. Then I came across Witch Wood and Witch Lane, named on the map, near Coggeshall and knew I had to include them in the route. But, despite extensive research I cannot find out how they became so named.

With the route finalised on paper, i set off on a hot summer’s day, soon after lockdown was lifted. It was a strange world of no cafe’s or shops open; having to wear face masks on buses and frains and only a handful of people in them. Apart from two walkers near Stisted I had the countryside to myself and hardly a bird sang. Only in a couple of places did I change the route as the rights of way were ill-defined and not signposted.

The jewel of the walk is the village of Coggeshall; among the finest not only in Essex but in England, with some 350 listed buildings. There are the remains of an abbey, the Grange barn is still there (National Trust Property), a former Abbey Chapel - St. Nicholas Chapel is also well preserved and used. Along the village streets are countless impressive
timber framed buildings. The most stunning is Paycocke House, also
National Trust Property, and arguably the finest timber building in
England. The church of St. Peter da Vincula has a remarkable monument to Mary Honywood, in the Sacristy, who upon her death at the age of 93 had 367 relatives - 114 grandchildren; 228 great grandchildren an 9 great great grandchildren. And there is more to her story as you will see on the walk.

So this is not just a walk for exercise and challenge, it is a journey to
see some remarkable places. The walking is mostly level, across fields, along lanes and through woodland. There are fine views over the Essex landscape. It is a quiet land with few facilities apart from Coggeshall and Braintree. Set off for the day and see at first hand where history was made in all its shades. You will return home tired but thrilled to have seen so many memorable places. Enjoy and may I wish you Happy Walking!

A5. PLACED IN A WRAP AROUND PLASTIC COVER AND SIGNED BY JOHN MERRILL

Witches badge and certificate available for all successful walkers. Names added to my Walkers Roll of Honour page.